Solo biking in the land of passes - Ladakh

Well... first things first... by no stretch of imagination am I what you call a "rider". Frankly speaking, I have not ridden a 'bullet' for more than 10 km at a stretch. So.... this blog is definitely not for the hardcore riders out there! It is a humble narration of my experience of exploring this beautiful part of the world as a rookie biker 😊😊....and.... maybe inspire some novices to attempt something new😇.

This has to be the most unplanned trip I  have ever had. The last minute change of plans from a journey to North east India , all I had was 2 hours in the airport to change my tickets to Leh and plan the rest ON THE GO!!

It was a mesmerizing experience of  landing in the Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport in Leh. The landing approach takes you between hills with a final sharp left turn to align with the runway just before landing..... truly spectacular!! Kudos to the pilots!

 

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ladakh_Districts_(2019).svg

As the Covid pandemic was still on the go, it took a while before leaving the airport as every visitor was checked for test reports and confirmed to be negative. The locals, police and the army personals were friendly.

Day 1 : Acclimatization

As  recommended by the locals and medical personnel, one full day of rest is essential for acclimatization after landing in Leh. The town is around 3,500m (11,500ft) ASL. The locals never forget to mention about 'adventurous' tourists who have skipped the acclimatization and ended up in a bad shape due to altitude sickness.

I decided to utilize this acclimatization period for planning my rest of the days in Leh and realized I could either rent a bike  or tag along with other tourists via  the tourist agencies.  Deciding to take the brave pill, I rented a Royal Enfield 350cc, even-though I knew it would be a little risky for a novice biker and  a bit on the expensive side, as I was going solo.

Permits:

Inner line permits (ILP) are required to travel to specific areas of Ladak. This includes Nubra valley, Turtuk, Pangong and Tsorimori. Fortunately, the hotel management had it arranged  for me. You will need soft copies of any photo ID cards ( Aadhar, driving license, etc). Once you obtain the permits, make sure you get 5 -6 photocopies of the same as you'll have to submit copies in the checkpoints along your journey.

After a peaceful day of interaction with the locals, I realised what most travellers tell about them. Their friendly  and helpful nature is almost boundless!

Day2:  Sham Valley

After the planning and interacting with the locals, I decided to ride to Sham valley. However,... there was one problem.....The name 'Sham valley' did not crop up in Google Maps😕. I later came to know that it is an area that includes Alchi, Likir, Zanskar-Indus Sangam (at Nimmu), and many others.

A seasoned biker would take approximately 2 hours to cover the 75 km distance between Leh and Sham Valley. For an 'unseasoned' bloke like me one, it took more than 3 hours 😁. The  Leh-Srinagar highway, I must appreciate, is  a very well laid out stretch of road.

Along Leh-Srinagar Highway

Even though it was the 'tourist season' the roads were practically empty ('coz of the pandemic). A dream ride for any biker 😊. 

The view just gets more picturesque and gorgeous. Being a slow rider.. I had ample time to enjoy them as well..😊😊.

Magnetic hill

En-route, the Magnetic Hill is a place, where the optical illusion creates an appearance as if gravity can be defied😁😁.

 

 

 

A beautiful confluence of River Zanskar & Indus ( Sangam) is seen right in the middle of the valley. One can also visit the multiple monasteries on the way, including the one at Alichi. The route to Alichi is an acute deviation from the highway. Very easy to miss ! ( Just like I did😁😁)

On the way back to Leh,  do visit the 'Hall of fame' in Leh. A war memorial dedicated to our brave soldiers.

If time permits towards the evening, one may visit the Sanchi Stupa and Leh palace.

Day 3: Ride to Nubra valley

 Route: Leh --> South Pullu --> via Kardung la Top --> North Pullu --> Kardung --> Khalsar -->  Diskit --> Hunder

The ride to Hunder in Nubra valley is about 135 kms. It takes about 5 hours (it took me 7😅). I would advise you to start early (by around 7AM). The sun rises by about 0530 hrs and you do have good day light until about 1830 hrs. Despite not being a highway, the roads were nothing short of excellent (Kudos to BRO!!).

 

The ride takes you along the Kardung la, which until 2017, was the highest motor-able road in the world. The temperature keeps plummeting as you reach the top, with added snow falls. Beware, the roads gets do get quite slippery due to the snow.

 

At the summit of one of the highest motor able road in the world

The top also boasts to have the highest cafe in the world.... A great stop for a quick hot tea!

 

As i rode along to my destination Nubra, I was extremely tempted to stop several times to soak in the intangible beauty scattered all along the route.

On the way, you'll have to submit one copy of the ILP in the checkpoints at Pullu. 

Once you enter Nubra valley, the rocks and the few sparse trees get largely  replaced by the vast expanse of a sand desert.

About 20 km to Hunder, you will cross the last petrol pump in the area (there is a petrol pump in Diskit, but locals don't recommend it)

Diskit monastery

En route, a short deviation of about 1km will take you to the Diskit monastery.

 

 

 

Hunder is a small town where you can find numerous camps and stays. It would be wise to book the accommodation from Leh itself, as network connectivity is always an issue here.

Once settled, you could choose to visit the sand dunes or try the Camel rides.

The night sky in Nubra seemed good for a bit of astro-photography. The star studded sky with its enchanting patterns of constellations were majestically visible above us. So.... You can definitely forego a few hours of sleep 😁😁!

My feeble effort to capture our Milky Way

Day 4: To Turtuk

Turtuk is a small village just 2.5 km from the India - Pakisthan border. It was captured by the Indian armed forces in the 1971 war. 

The 80 km ride from Hunder to Turtuk  takes about 2 hours. 

Again, the roads are well laid out and neatly marked. There are a few weak bridges though.

The area has heavy military presence and photography is largely prohibited. Permits are to be submitted on the way.

The small cozy village is filled with warm and friendly people. You can forget about any sort of network coverage in this area. A short hike up the silent hills (about an hour) will take you to an area where you can see the border areas. It was a clear day and I got lucky enough to see the Indian tri-colour flying high up in the mountains (goosebumps guaranteed!).

Entering one of the northern-most villages in India

On the ride back to Nubra from Turtuk, do visit the Shyok war memorial 👇 (again.. you will not find a mention of this in Google!!).

Shyok War Memorial

Day 5: Ride to Pangong

Route:  Hunder --> Diskit --> Khalsar --> Agham --> Durbuk --> Tangse --> Pangong Tso

The ride to Pangong  is about 160 km and takes about 6-7 hours. Do not forget to top up your fuel tanks on the way, as there are absolutely no petrol bunks till you reach Kuru (near Leh) which is on your the way back! The Nubra- Pangong journey was the simply marvellous. I was much slower than my usual self partly 'coz of the drizzle and partly owing to the multiple meandering streams.

The road climbs to about 4,230 m (14,000ft) ASL along beautiful green grasslands populated with horses and cows.

The first view of the highest salt water lake in the world

Pangong Tso (lake)... On a sunny day, the colors it throws out is amazing !!!!

A short ride along the banks of the lake will get you to a few makeshifts accommodations available here. On a clear sunny day, one can spend the whole evening gazing at the serene lake and the multitude of beautiful hues it throws out..... almost resembling a painting!! 

The climate is the coldest here. The strong winds will definitely make you feel much colder.

Day 6: Back to Leh via Chang La

Route: Pangong Tso --> Tangse --> Durbuk -->  via Chang La --> Karu --> Leh

After the night stay by the lake, I proceeded back to Leh via Chang la. The road ascends to about 5,400m (17,700ft) ASL [again... one of the highest motorable roads in the world]. Except for a 10-15 km rough, un-tarred stretch at the summit, the roads are well laid out. As the summit nears, the road also gets wet and slippery, and the tiny flakes of ice from the snoe fall pokes into the eyes. This make the ride challenging.

• Distance: about 160 km
• Approx ride time: 6-7 hrs

Again.. I suggest you out start early (by about 7 am). As the day goes, the melting glacial ice can cause the roads to get a bit water logged. I started  late, at around 0815 hrs and had to encounter several streams across the roads... some knee deep with running ice cold Glacial water!

A hot tea at the top is a bliss in the snowfall

After a short break at the top, I proceeded to Leh. Once done with the bad patch at the top, the roads are wide and smooth till Leh. I had a brief visit to the Thiksey monastery and the Shey Palace on the way. I  finally reached Leh by 1500hrs.

Thiksey Monastery

Shey Palace

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• Make sure you have topped up your petrol tanks at Leh and on the way back from Nubra. You wont find many bunks on the way.
• The roads take you through highly militarized areas. Photography is prohibited in many stretches. Do respect the rules and our brave soldiers.
• Enjoy the ride at your own pace. You have ample time to reach the destinations. So... as always enjoy the journey more than the destination!
• The area is clean and beautiful. Many of the streams and rivers are the source of drinking water to the locals. Make sure you leave the smallest possible human impact behind..
• Happy riding 😀😀😀.......
  

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