Bhutan - The kingdom of happiness

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A trip to the land of happiness was always in my bucket-list, awaiting to be put into action. Yes, Bhutan it is! I was in the land of dragons, in the winter of 2017. Exploring the natural paradise was my main agenda, as I am less of a history enthusiast. Little did I know that both were inextricably interwoven into the experience of Bhutan.

So, here I place before you a brief outline of my 10 day trip to this wonderland.

Day 1 : Cross the border to Phuentsholing, get the permits and proceed to Thimpu.

An exciting (but time consuming)  way to do this would be to board the Kanchankanya express (train no. 13149) from Kolkata, Sealdah station (20:30 hrs) ,  and alight at Hashimara (supposed to be 10.40hrs but it took 90 more minutes!). 
Hashimara is a quiet station with minimal activity. Plenty of taxis (on reserved or shared basis) will be available for an approximate charge of Rs. 400 to the border, which is about a 40 mins drive.

The taxi will drop you on the Indian side of the border in Jaigaon. Jaigaon, quite unlike Hashimara is fairly busy town, bustling with activities.

A quick word of advice here... don't forget to draw adequate cash from the ATMs before you cross the border.
 
Bhutan Gate- from Indian side










Bhutan gate - from Bhutan side

The road continues into Bhutan through the Bhutan gate. Pedestrians have a separate entry and exit gate by the side of the motorable road. Once 'inside Bhutan' the busy streets of the Indian side paves way to the calm and neat ways of Bhutan. The immigration office is about 50m from the Bhutan gate adjacent to a petrol pump on the right. 
  • Documents required (for Indian citizens): 
    • Photocopies of Passport / Voters ID card
    • Two photos
    • Hotel booking voucher of the first day of stay in Bhutan 
    • A travel plan for your duration of stay in Bhutan
  • Time: 0930hrs to 1600hrs (Note: Bhutan Standard Time  is 30min ahead of IST)
  • Time for processing : ~ 30 mins
    • It would be easier and faster if traveling in a group. Solo travelers have to go through a more lengthy process. 
  • Fee: Permits for Indians are free ( as of until December 2017, but RUMOURS seem to suggest that charges may be levied for Indian tourists as well, which may become effective from January 2018) 

The Permit is granted for a period of seven days for two places - Paro and Thimpu (only). Further extension of stay and places have to obtained from Thimbu.

Thimpu was my first destination. As a low budget traveler by choice,  I wanted to board a bus near the immigration office but I was late (4pm) and they were all prebooked.A car with a chauffeur which would cost Rs.3000/day was my only other option. Sounds hugely expensive right? En-route I realized this was the wise choice. A chat with my chauffeur and the locals revealed that, visiting less accessible states of Bhutan like Gangtey, Punaka and Haa by public transport would be a herculean task! 

Some of these places are not accessible by public transport, whereas the other states had only a single bus connecting them from Thimpu/Paro in a day or once in two/three days. Enlightened, I decided to book my chauffeur cum friend for the entire trip.

The drive along the well constructed BRO (Border Roads Organisation, Indian Army) roads meandering along the mountain edges, with the setting sun in the background... was indeed a heavenly experience!

I reached Thimpu by 2230 hrs.

 Day2: After extending the permit for a further 5 days and including Gangtey, Punakha and Haa, I set out to Gangtey.

The drive to Gangtey via Dochula pass is about 6 hours from Thimpu. 

You will get a breathtaking view of the eastern Himalayan ranges at this pass. 

 
You will also find the symmetrically constructed 108 Stupas, symbolizing Buddhist culture standing elegantly on a mound of green grass.



 The inter-state roads are good till Punakha after which they sort of disappear. The frequent landslides and the widening of the mountain roads makes it a rough journey. It would be wise to set out early as darkness engulfs these places by 17:00hrs.

Day3: A peaceful hike through the Phobjikha/Gangtey valley to the Gangtey monastery through the Gangtey village.



 Day4: Travel to Punakha (Gangtey to Punakha - 3 Hours)

 Day5: Punakha is a very scenic place. The clear turquoise blue waters of the Male river (Pho cho) and Female river (Mo Cho) unite to form the Punakha river. The Punaka Tzong, considered as the most beautiful tzong sits right in between these two rivers just before they meet.

The  union of Mo Chu (female river) and Pho Chu (male river).

The Punaka Tzong


The brilliant construction of the Punaka Tzong and suspension bride are both a must visit.



Day6: Travel to Paro and some shopping (purchase of souvenirs in the handicraft from the local stores)

Day7: Trek Paro-Taktsang monastery or tiger's nest, One of the most mind-blowing constructions that I have ever seen.



Day8: Travel to Haa valley via Chelela pass (the highest point in Bhutan). Be careful over the treacherous ice covered roads!



Day9: Back to Paro for absolute relaxation, to soak in every moment that I spent in this wonderful country.

Day10: Flight from Paro to New Delhi with the view of the magnificent Himalayan range including Mount Everest and Mount Kilimangaro. ( be sure to insist a seat on the right side of the plane)


 

Bhutan is a must visit according to me, AT LEAST ONCE in a lifetime! I would suggest the immediate post monsoon season as a better time to visit if you love watching green hues. 

 A thought which reverberates in my mind...Bhutan, as a nation has maintained its identity through the years. Having  been untouched by the Western influence, and not blindly chasing them or their dreams and notions of "modernization and development", Bhutan leaves a sweet taste of  "being human" lingering on the senses of every visitor. The genuine smiles of the children and the elderly alike, their reverence  to  the eco-system and the pride they take in protecting it is truly commendable, something which seems to be gradually fading away into the oblivion elsewhere. This kingdom has placed the Gross National Happiness of its people as a measure of their growth and development rather than the mundane materialistic markers which define the GDP in other parts of the world! Hats off to this exemplary nation which has unveiled to the world a less trodden yet, remarkably meaningful path in human progress. 

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