A day in Kaziranga

Kaziranga, a world heritage site which homes and protects 60% of the world’s precious one horned rhinoceros, like the rest of north-east, is a beautiful place. The national highway NH-27 connecting Guwahati to Jorhat makes its way right through this dense jungle. With signboards of the animal corridors scattered all around, we can expect these inmates to traverse our paths as we go along. Rhinos roaming and grazing along the road are a common sight.

Aranya lodge run by the Assam govt. is a good place to stay. Having heard  highly of this place from fellow travellers, I wanted to stay there. To my surprise, all the rooms were pre-booked two months in advance!!!!!!. But as there were umpteen other choices, it was not much of an issue. However, it would be wise to book the lodges online well in advance (like I did!) to get a good spot near the main entrance at Kohora. You can also request the hotel manager to arrange for the safaris, either individually or on a share basis.

I reached Kaziranga on a Saturday , at 7 pm. So, I opted for the early morning elephant safari followed by the morning session of jeep safari. On the other hand, if you are arriving in the mid morning, you can choose to complete the jeep safari in the afternoon on the same day and go for the elephant ride next morning.

Elephant safari.

• Cost:
• ₹875 per person ( 4 passengers per elephant ), including the entrance fee, elephant ride and the guide charge.
• Cost to get you from your hotel to the riding point is extra ( ~₹600 from Kohora )
• Duration : 1-1.5 hrs
  
  
  
  
  
  

There are two ranges for trying the safari. Both are equally good. As I had asked the hotel manager to arrange the safaris, it was smooth going all the way. The driver picked me up from the hotel ( in Kohora ), dropped me at the entrance of the park and led me straight into the elephant riding point. Everything being pre-booked by them (lucky for me), I did not even have to stand in the queue.

The park conducts two elephant safaris each day. One at 5 AM and the other at 6 AM. I would recommend one to go for the  5 AM one (a good choice that I made! ;-) )  as the whole atmosphere was just perfect. The only drawback being the low light, making it challenging for a photo enthusiast.

The elephant riding point is a raised platform from where you can directly get onto the back of the gentle beasts. They take you as a group into the forest. The ride obviously was a one-of-a-kind experience, with the elephants going down a narrow lane one behind the other, breaking out as they reach the forest. 

A jacket and woolen cap could be helpful as the temperature reaches a low of about 10°C. The whole landscape, enveloped by thick fog, was simply spectacular, with the ghost figures of elephants creeping in and out of the fog. A mystical experience, indeed!

You get to encounter a variety of wildlife including swamp deers, wild buffaloes and the great rhinos, of course. The prime attraction being the rhinos, the mahouts steer the elephants really close and give us plenty of time to capture them in our minds and frames.

The elephant ride lasts for about an hour after which you get back to the riding platform and disembark.

After the elephant safari, I went straight back to the hotel, grabbed a quick breakfast and set out for the jeep safari, with the same driver.

Jeep safari:

• Cost:
• ₹400 per person (5-6 person per jeep)
• ₹2275 if you are hiring the whole jeep for yourself
• Duration: 2 hrs

The entrance was a short drive from Kohara. All visitors were screened thoroughly by the guards for any objects hazardous to the environment including plastics. The drive in the open topped gypsy started  along a narrow parched road leading to the jungle.

The area remains closed during the monsoons (between May and October) as it is likely to  be flooded with water from the mighty Brahmaputra. A tower stands tall, beside the entrance to the forest road, with marks of the water-levels of some of the highest floods in history.

The driver took us deep into the interiors of the wild, yet at a safe distance to prevent interference. The road is covered on both sides by tall elephant grass. At places, patches of blackened grass with ashes revealed human intervention for a cause.

The locals and the forest officials set fire to these grasses just before each rainy season so that it grows anew the next season.

Rhinos and elephants are a common site. Along the way, one can also notice numerous photo traps set by the government with the help of Discovery India to keep a toll on the diverse wildlife. The tall elephant grass seem perfect for the other jungle inmate, whom we expected with fearful eagerness – the tigers. Our observant driver pointed to us, a recent set of tiger paw prints on the mud path.

Honestly, some elements of experience are pristine….beyond words or visuals.  Kudos to all the forest officials who are involved in protecting and preserving the flora and fauna of this paradise of India.

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Connectivity: Kaziranga is about 4 hours from Guwahati. Private bus services can be booked online to and fro. Govt. buses are scanty. Loads of share taxis are available, if you are looking for a cheaper option.

Other attractions: For the botanist in you the Kaziranga National Orchid Park is nearby ( 2 km from Kohora )